Puerto Princesa
Palawan's green, easy-going capital — and the gateway to a river that flows for kilometres through a mountain before meeting the sea.
A natural wonder most people rush past
Puerto Princesa is where most Palawan journeys begin — the island's capital, with the best-connected airport for miles. Plenty of travellers land and set straight off north, which is a genuine pity, because an hour or two away lies one of the most remarkable natural sites in Asia: the Puerto Princesa Underground River, both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New7Wonders of Nature. A navigable river winds for around eight kilometres through a limestone cave system beneath a jungle mountain, and you explore its lower reaches by paddle boat, gliding in near-darkness beneath cathedral-sized chambers hung with stalactites while swiftlets wheel overhead, until the cave mouth opens back onto the South China Sea.
The city itself is a pleasant surprise — green, orderly and relaxed by Philippine standards, with terrific seafood and an unhurried rhythm that makes it a forgiving first night after the long haul from Australia or the UK. It best suits nature lovers, families, and anyone routing overland to El Nido who would rather open their holiday with a wonder than a transfer. Give it a little of your time and it repays you; treat it purely as an airport and you'll wonder later what you missed.
What to do in Puerto Princesa
The Underground River is the headline, and done properly it fills a day: a drive across the island to the coastal village of Sabang, a short banca hop along a wild, forested shoreline, then the paddle-boat trip into the cave itself. Daily numbers are capped by permit, so this is not a turn-up-and-hope excursion — the permit, the boat slot and the timing all need booking ahead, precisely the sort of detail we take off your hands. Around Sabang it is worth lingering: a mangrove paddle tour where guides point out snakes and monitor lizards in the branches, and, for the energetic, the zipline and clamber over Ugong Rock on the way back.
With a second day, head out on Honda Bay — unhurried island hopping between sandbars and reef-fringed islets such as Luli (short for "now you see it, now you don't", as the sandbar submerges at high tide), Cowrie and Starfish, with easy snorkelling over coral gardens and a seafood lunch on the beach. It is a gentler, quieter cousin of the famous tours up north, and ideal for families. In the city itself there's the Palawan wildlife and crocodile centre and the sweet-toothed novelty of Baker's Hill for children, while independent-minded travellers can escape to Nagtabon Beach, a locals' surf-and-swim cove on the far coast. Come evening the ritual is simple — grilled fish and prawns at a waterfront grill — and the most magical add-on is the after-dark firefly watching on the Iwahig River, where mangroves light up like slow fireworks. If pearls tempt you, Palawan's south-sea pearls are a proud local craft worth an hour of browsing.
Where to stay
For one or two nights, the choice is straightforward. The city centre is practical: comfortable hotels near the restaurants and an easy start for early tour departures. The coast around the city holds quieter resorts with sea views and pools — worth it if you're building in a rest day after the flight over. Some travellers instead overnight in Sabang, the small beach village beside the Underground River, trading city convenience for waking up next to the park.
Our take: treat Puerto Princesa as the opening chapter of Palawan, not the destination itself. Land, sleep, do the Underground River properly on day one and Honda Bay on day two, then make the drive north to El Nido — you'll have seen a world wonder before most itineraries have even started.
Combines well with
Puerto Princesa is the southern door to Palawan, so it combines with the north almost by definition: the 5–6 hour scenic drive delivers you to El Nido and its lagoons, and from there the fast ferry continues to Coron — the full Palawan arc in one clean line. With direct flights from Manila and Cebu, it also slots easily after a first night in Manila or a Cebu chapter.
Start Palawan with a world wonder.
Permits, transfers and timing for the Underground River — arranged before you fly. Tell us your dates and we'll send a free tailor-made Palawan itinerary within 24 hours.